Kyosho RT6/RB6/SC6/ZX6.6 Suspension Pill Chart

Pulled this chart from a post on Facebook. Don’t recall the original author so I take no credit for it, just posting it in a place hopefully people can find it and use it.

I believe it to be accurate. Tebo posted some similar data on Anti-Squat settings so I believe is legit.



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Kyosho RT6 Laydown Tranny

Recently installed the RB6.6 Transmission in my RT6. The question has come up a lot recently so figure it would be worth it to make a quick blog post.

I personally prefer 4-gear for mod – feels smoother and more controllable.

The transmission drops right in. If you have the Alum (UMW705) or brass (UMW725) RF Suspension holder, you’ll need to dremel off material in the middle to make the laydown transmission sit flush with the Chassis.

Best solution is to get the newer RB6.6 mount (UMW725B) – shown in the pics below.

The battery will move forward and if your already running transverse battery, you’ll need to cut out the chassis pods to move the battery further forward.

I’m using the JTP battery strap. It felt the cleanest solution to me. It means you can’t get the battery out without your 2mm wrench being handy, but eliminates all the annoying plastic straps and allows you to move the battery back and forth pretty easily.

You need to use the Stand-up Rear Bulkhead (UM724B) to mount the shock tower. Do not mount the shock tower to the laydown transmission as the tower won’t mount up with the body (PL Enforcer or Bulldog).



You’ll need to dremel some material off the side pod as you’ll find the pinion will be touching the pod.



Still some work in progress here…I’ll update in the next week once I settle on setup … (current Jan 7th 2018)….

Current Setup which is working well below.

RT6 Laydown Setup at 46RC, NJ

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Vintage Kyosho Cars from 2017 Vintage Nationals

Felt like doing a quick write up on the cars I ran at this years Vintage Nationals.

Firstly 2WD Buggy. I picked up this car used. Its a Kyosho Turbo Ultima with a Ultima Pro chassis. Here is a pic with the body on:



The body was a reproduction by TBG available via ebay. The decals came from MCI Racing (of Canada). For the colored parts on the body I painted them using the original decals to trace the lines, then painted them my colors.


I ran an upgrade steering rack that came out of an RC10. I ran a Peak Racing 4200 stick pack – old school looking and light weight. I think the transverse weight helped.

Up front I ran a massive 48G of weight! I also ran RB6.6 shocks.

Wheels are 2.2 Kyosho rims I believe made for the Tomahawk and are readily available.


Ran a Tekin RS Gen 2 Spec with a Gen3 17.5 Motor.


I brought the car used and the battery posts and straps probably aren’t needed as I have my battery taped in. Has Lunsford Turnbuckles as you can see below:


  • Shock Oils F450cst / R350cst (2mm limiters in Front AND Rear)
  • Pistons F1.4×3 / R1.6×2
  • Springs F White, R Gold
  • Ride Height F 26, R 28
  • Camber R-2 F-3

For 4WD Buggy I built a Lazer ZX/R. Its a mix of the Lazer ZX with R parts.

Again body from Team Blue Groove on Ebay.


The body also includes chassis under tray :


For the clutch, used ZX-R slipper assembly. The original 100T 48p spurs are tough to find. Found a Schumacher 98T spur that was a direct fit. Used Associated Hex disk pads that dropped in with a little dremeling.

Ran a Tekin RSX speed controller with a Tekin Gen3 10.5 motor.

My car has gear diffs that are not sealed so can’t hold any fluid.


Ran RB6 shocks.  Rear Tower and Wing Mount are ZX originals.

Ran a Saddle pack which made the car a little heavy. Shorty maybe better way to go.


Ran a ZX6 Steering Rack. It requires a little shimming to get it level but works good.


Front end pretty much stock. Alum Knuckles.


  • Shock Oils F450cst / R350cst (2mm limiters in Front)
  • Pistons F1.6×2 / R1.4×3
  • Springs F Pink, R Gold
  • Ride Height F 20, R 20
  • Camber R-2 F-2




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Throw back : RC8 Nitro Late Model Build

A couple of people asked me recently, or I’ve seen posts asking how to build a 1/8th Late Model car. With parts for the L8ight and OFNA cars becoming impossible to find, The biggest challenges to building a Late Model are really the front bumper (which you definitely need unless you want to trash your expensive body, quickly) and a rear Bumper / Body Mount.

Back in 2010 I built a late model with help from friends. I was new to the hobby and this would be my first Nitro car.

Basically you can start with any 1/8th Buggy and add bumpers. GT Cars are a great place to find bumpers, with Serpent and Mugen having GT Cars. Kyosho GT1/GT2 and soon to be GT3.

At the time I ran Team Associated cars in my first year or two of racing (I got started in this hobby again in 2009).

I took a used RC8 RTR chassis from Ebay. It started off looking like this initially, with bumpers mounted:


Back in 2010, Horizon still distributed parts for the L8ight chassis. So it was easy for me to build this car…

For the Rear body mounts, I initially just drilled two holes into the rear tower, to mount the stock L8ight Rear Mounts as shown above.

The Front bumper and Body mounts and mounted right on the front tower at the top (I don’t think I had to drill any holes). The bottom, with a little dremeling would insert where the old RC8 front bumper went.

Turns out the front bumper would lower mount would only last 1 race before tearing out. I had to come up with a more solid solution, which worked well (So well in fact, that a buddy at the time had the same issues with his Xray conversion – did the same thing).

I took a piece of Aluminum (from Home Depot/Ace Hardware) and just drilled it out where the front 4 diff mount holes went. then 4 into the bumper. Rock Solid!!!


From the picture above you can see there was a different rear bumper installed. The rear bumper really helps you from being rear ended and having another LM inserted into your car 😉

This bumper came from OnStat. Pretty solid item that bolted into the Rear Tower (I had to drill holes for it). You can see below I then mounted the Rear Body mounts directly into the Onstat bumper (Had to drill holes for that also).

P11300071/8th NITRO Late Models are pretty tricky to race – which puts most people off. BUT THE REWARDS are endless – Noise, Smoke, Going Slide-ways !!!!

I was very lucky to have good friends Dan Moss and Bob Foley help me find my Nitro Wings !

The biggest challenge is keeping the motor running and not running out of fuel. (Your Track Rules may vary on how you can achieve this).

I ran a Truggy tank from an RC8T that bolt right on. The other challenge is keeping the motor from overheating after 5mins of basically full throttle. In general you’ll run it very fat, and by 5mins it’ll be good and lean…and toasty hot, but should be still making power.

You can see from the above picture I also made a middle 5th body mount that helps stop your expensive 1/8th LM body from crumpling in the middle – Also makes the car easy to carry.

I ran the C&M Atomic body which I think looks really authentic. Custom wraps came from a buddy at RC Vinyl Express.


Here is a pic of the car completed, before its first race in 2010.


The Scheme is based off Earl Pearson Jr’s 2010 1:1 Late Model:

Screen Shot 2017-06-15 at 9.40.32 PM.png

Rolling forward to 2016-2017. I’m running LM again, this time an L8ight from Ebay. But by the end of 2017 , I plan to build an Kyosho MP9 based car using the Front Bumper and Rear mounts from the soon to be released Kyosho GT3. Here is my current car as of June 2017.

I had Adam at RC Vinyl inverse the colors and keep with the similar design. Again Earl Pearson, I think from 2011:


My 2017 Car:


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Kyosho MP9 Rear Towers

I realized today I had two different Hard (gold colored) rear towers for my MP9.

As many have found out, you can’t buy the brown colored parts from Kyosho. Replacement ones come Hard anodized (and gold in color).

As far as the rear tower goes, IFW408B equivalent to stock geometry (with a kit/medium shock).

IF437 is taller, For use with IS116B long threaded shocks and IF348 series springs (per Kyosho America)

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MP9 TKI4 IF486 B-Block verses TKI3 IF440

The IF486 B-Block included with the TKI4 differs from the IF440 included with the TKI3. I’ve gathered some information here from a couple of posts on rctech which address the differences:

The IF486 block has less kickup gives less weight transfer (front rises and dives less on throttle and brake inputs)  => more responsive, thats good for hi-grip tracks.

With the TKI4 B-Block you raise the lower hinge-pin and that gives you less front end grip in theory. So, while your castor decreases and gives you more steering, raising the hingepin gives you a bit less steering, its a compromise, giving the TKI4 a bit more steering than the TKI3.

The photo below is from Kania’s FB page. IF440 verses IF486.


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Serpent S500 – DEX410 – SD4X

First saw a DEX410v2 in 2011 at my LHS. Loved the design and just had to have one.

At the time, it was a hot buggy. Everyone had them. But poor maintenance, build and some product flaws caused most folks to move on.

But I kept mine thru the v3 and v4 and did very well with the the v4.

The car was always very easy to work on, for the most part, with the exception of a busted Rear bulkhead or Servo issues – two areas that required alot of wrenching to solve.

The v4 was a great iteration of the car, with improved plastics and styling. A very nimble car that dominated on high traction surfaces.

Prior to Team Durango’s branding of Gerd Strenge’s S500 design, Gerd developed early versions of the buggy for Serpent.

After Durango as a brand basically fell to pieces under the management of Hobbico, Gerd moved back to Serpent. I was super excited to see him evolve his original platform in the SD4X.

Durango in the meantime released the rather silly v5 with the widest chassis known to man, for a 1/10th scale. The v5 brought some decent revisions (in my opinion) to the bulkheads etc, but the chassis is just stupid. And it doesn’t drive like the v4 at all.

I was lucky enough to build an SD4X for a buddy.

The chassis is a little wider than a DEX410v4, closer to typical cars like Xray, AE, Kyosho etc.

Center Slipper is fixed in place unlike the DEX410 that you would remove with a giant body Pin. The car uses traditional battery tie-downs and you can run a shorty or Saddles (like most most modern wheelers.)

Bulkheads are really nice and simple. 4 screws thru chassis to remove bulkheads and pull out diffs (similar simplicity to DEX410).

The diff cases don’t use the ultra annoying Durango Diff Loops, but rather a screw-down thumb washer that keeps the case closed and outdrive in place.

Alum rear hubs and caster blocks are nice stock inclusion with the kit.


Motor mount is consistent with most current cars unlike the DEX410 which had the ultra hard to install screws which made it a bitch to set gear mesh.


Re-configured servo saver and floating servo mount is a nice touch, and much easy to manage than the DEX410. Also meant the drive shaft can be lower.

One issue is when running front motor. The rear of certain motors can interfere with the left side of the servo saver.


One thing thats pretty neat is the Inner Hinge Pin design – or rather lack of them. The Arms actually have ball-studs screwed into them, You then adjust thru the back of the D-holder to remove any slack/slop.


The car has pretty dope Sway Bar holders. The Arms are very similar to HB Racing solid arms, no doubt with with Carbon inserts you can stiffer the arms.


All other product info here

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